Wednesday, 26 June 2013

An Egg and a Golden Budda

The Golden Budda at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya, the ancient capital of Thailand, is located in the valley of the Chao Phraya River. It is a place I had never before heard of but, after reading rave reviews in the guidebooks, we decided to make the short journey out of Bangkok. 

It is a city said to offer religious retreat and magnificent monuments which celebrate its past splendor as King U Thong’s old kingdom. And indeed it is worth the day trip.

To get there we boarded the rustic, and very rickety, train from Bangkok's Hualamphong station. Once aboard, this served as a cultural experience itself. Young people, old people, farmers, workers, children, business men, everyone crammed into the carriages not caring who were they sitting on or next to.

Despite the noise and calamity, I did a usual Bex and fell asleep in minutes. Jenna later described how people watched with intrigue as I lolled around my seat and created a wave of hilarity when finally, I dove head first into the train window. I immediately awoke with a throbbing pain in my head and embarrassment snaking up to my face as numerous little Thai faces stared back stifling their giggles. Crazy tourists.

When we arrived in Ayutthaya around 2 hours later, I was sporting an egg-sized lump in the middle of my forehead and a slight headache. 

However, we were still swarmed by a flurry of men all offering their services as our personal tuk-tuk drivers for the day. Ayutthaya was once one of the most prosperous cities in Thailand and so has numerous temples, palaces and ruins to visits. A driver can chauffeur you around your hotspots of choice and deliver you back at the train station for less than 100 baht each.

Looking back I have no recollection of our driver's real name but to us he was Enrique. His all black and extremely tight attire, combined with his sexy swagger beckoned for a more wholesome (slash sexy) name. Appearances aside, Enrique was the perfect guide. He took us to the temples he thought would interest us the most, chose a gem of a restaurant for our lunch and delivered us back to Ayutthaya's train station in time for the last train. 

We began at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon or “The Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory”. After all the temples that followed, this one still remains my favourite. I like to think it was because of the dozens of ornate buddas that lined the temples walls, and the enchanting golden budda that lay in wait at the top of the never-ending staircase, but really it was because of the giant Mulan-styled bell I got to gong. Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon is a truly stunning and serene place to enjoy some Thai history and culture.

We then crossed the city to Wat Mahathat. These beautiful grounds are home to the ancient temple ruins but they also a harbour a hidden treasure. Embedded into the roots of a fig tree, a stone Budda's head sits peacefully at the base. This bizarre but beautiful image is certainly one to behold and enshrines the magical spirit of Thailand.

There were numerous other temples that Enrique whizzed us by, such as Viharn Phra Mongkol Bopit and Wat Thammikarat, but it was a relaxing moment when we finally collapsed back into the tuk-tuk and headed back to the station. 

The May heat makes tourist touting an exhausting and sticky affair. So, while we could have spent hours more exploring the Ayutthaya’s extensive beauty, it was time for us to board that train and nestle back against the window.

Thursday, 13 June 2013

Let's begin our Thai love-in ♥

The Grand Palace, Bangkok

Awakening one cold, March morning to snowflakes trickling down my window and an icy chill seeping though my door, I had a thought. A thought so clear and so profound that I rang my friend Jenna right away and told her...“I want to go to Thailand”. “OK”, she said and two months, and £400, later we were on a plane heading for the land of smiles.

When I arrived in Bangkok I wasn’t met with the white, sandy beaches and beaming sunshine I had envisioned. The capital city was stifling and crowded, overspilling with an array of colour and smell. Such an overwhelming welcome had me questioning if Thailand would be to my liking, but all it takes is a few hours of this crazed wonder before Bangkok becomes your wild playground.  

Make-shift tables perch on each street corner selling questionable meats and multi-coloured juices. Crazed drivers dart every which way across the roads leaving trails of raucous noise behind them. This was Bangkok.

Myself and Jenna were in culture shock mode. Luckily, we quickly made the acquaintance of a young man named Michael who was staying in our hostel. He versed us in the art of bartering, told us how no tuk tuk ride should cost more than 50 baht and, most importantly, showed us how to sneak into 5 star hotels. 

It was vital we found some refuge from the heat and, with no relief in sight, it seemed the only option was to put on our rich girl facades and saunter into Hotel Marino. We took the lift to the fifth floor and dove straight into the infinity pool- yass. As good a hostel as We Bangkok was, it just didn’t offer the 5 star facilities these two girls needed. Ooh such rebels we were.

After Michael left, Jenna and I had to fend for ourselves. The Grand Palace was our first calling point alone. It is a shining, gold hub of pavilions showcasing impeccable detail. Entry was 400 baht (£8) and worth visiting as an ice breaker to Thai culture. But, be warned, in many Thai attractions it is compulsory that you cover yourself from top to toe. In scorching temperatures this is not ideal.

After we had sweated off a bucket we shed the layers and walked 20 minutes to the coolest place in town; Khao San Road

Over the last 30 years, what was once a quiet, residential area has become one of the most famous streets in the city. Restaurants and bars litter the roadside and stalls offering clothes and trinkets spill out onto the narrow street. There is a great vibe in Khao San Road day or night making it a popular hang-out for tourists. 

However, it is strongly recommended that you do not stay here. Hostel prices are steep for some of the worst accommodation and it doesn’t exactly ooze safety. Staying slightly further out means you can get cheaper and cleaner accommodation but still be in tuk tuk distance to everything you need. 

Speaking of cheap, there are many tacky stereotypes that hound any Bangkok stay. A ladyboy show, a ping pong show...yes, we did both and neither were worth it. Save yourself the time, money and rosy (facial) cheeks and avoid.

There are a few unique things that you really must do though. Visiting the Banyan Tree is one of them. This top hotel is one of the tallest buildings in Thailand and offers a view that stretches right across the city. No need to sneak into this one, they allow visitors to visit their rooftop bar as long as you don’t mind surrendering your shoes at the door and donning a pair of old man mules.

A floating market is also a vital activity, even if it is just to watch how many tipsy tourists topple overboard. It does mean an early rise and wearing a somewhat sexy hat- the thai like donning tourists in random garments. However, it is worth it to sample the crazy chaos of a Bangkok market.  

Most people travelling Thailand make Bangkok their arrival point. This means that agents are scattered throughout all competing to offer the best price to get you to your next destination. Putting Michael’s pointers to good use, we bartered our way to Chiang Mai. BEX FYI (courtesy of michael): bartering is key and the only way you’re gonna get by in Thailand is to barter the hell out of everything.

Bangkok is a stifling city that often leaves you hankering for a breath but it is colourful and exotic in every way. While it may not be to everyone’s liking, and certainly isn’t the best of Thailand, it is where every Thai love-in needs to start.

Wednesday, 29 May 2013

A slice of Italian charm

Getting my perfect Venice moment

Moving on to the land of rolling hills and winding rivers, it's time for Italy. Rich in culture and diverse in creativity, Italia is home to cities of history, of religion and of art but, they say Venice is the city of love. So, in typical cheeseball style, I headed there with the BF to soak up all things lovely.

Built across 118 small islands that are connected by intricate bridges and cobbled pathways, it is said to be the most beautiful place built by man. It is here, in this unique city, that I received my first taste of Italian charm. 

As a Ryanair patron, I had found myself and Robb return flights for £50 each in the middle of August- a summer bargain, perfect for two students. 

Again, I then scoured Hostel Bookers to find affordable accommodation. Viva Venezia was a shared apartment in the city centre that was spacious, clean and peaceful. Ideal. 

So away to the land of Pavarotti, pasta and passion we went. The sun was hot and the city was overflowing with tourists, all after their own slice of Italian pleasure. Perhaps August is not the best time to visit as temperatures are scorching which makes it hard to keep the backpack on and tourist head fully focused. 

However, with 4 full days in Venice there was enough time to divide the day into morning meandering around the sites, and afternoon beach sessions at the Lido

On the list to see there was Saint Mark's Basilica, the Campanile and St. Mark’s Square. I had approached them with interest about the history and excitement at the views. Instead, I was forced to listen to Robb’s step by step breakdown of how he had been a spy and mastered the city with Assassin's Creed manoeuvres. Yes, we are talking about a playstation game. Although never having been to Venice, Robb apparently knew how to scale the Campanile, avoid the monks in the cathedral and escape unscathed out of Doge's Palace...bit of culture right there.

When we put our spy kits away and settled for typical tourist transportation, it seemed the city’s vaparetto system was the best mode. Purchasing a €25 travel pass to use the vaparetto system unlimited over 3 days was a good money saver. Without it, each boat ride would have cost €7 and, as an island with no roads, you kind of rely on the waterways

BEX FYI: Make sure to always pack motion tablets because you never know when you could have your head hanging over the side of a boat. Too much movement for me.

All tourist attractions aside, the key to a great Venezian trip is to get lost. Just wander through the winding streets and quirky alleyways and you’ll find original artwork hidden around corners and pretty buildings nestled behind archways. Of course, there’s always the gelaterias and pizzerias to keep you fueled along the way.

But how can I detail a trip to Venice without mentioning the gondolas? Those picturesque canal boats that float along the Grand Canal and under the Ponte di Rialtowhilst a sun-kissed couple gaze all doe-eyed at one another. Ready for the sick bucket yet? 

A 40 minute gondola ride comes to no less than €80. As official penny-pinchers, this was not an option but I was still desperate to have my wistful gondola moment...and I got it. 

On a lazy evening stroll we stumbled across the tragehettos. These are mini gondolas that cross the Grand Canal horizontally. This means that a ride only lasts 5 minutes but costs less than a euro. And, although the trip may be short, you can cross the canal as many times as you like to ensure you get your perfect, little piece of Venice. After you have that, what more could you need from city of love?

Saturday, 18 May 2013

Crayfish, Caviar and Kanelbullar

Stockholm delicacies

I had expected vibrance and rhythm in Madrid, I had ideas of romance and art for Paris, but Stockholm to me was an unknown island. There were no museums or monuments that I could automatically reel off and I had no idea about cuisine or history. However, I was excited to see the epicentre of Sweden and sample the culture it had to offer.

First impressions, well I have to steal a few lines from Jay-Z and say that Stockholm actually is a “concrete jungle”- a vast landscape of skyscrapers and plazas. However, myself and travel buddy were utilising our contacts and staying with my friend’s relatives in a small town outside of the city called Vallingby. This meant that we could escape the inner city madness and sample the suburban Swedish life. 

Staying in a what looked like page 45 of the Ikea brochure really provided a taste for the ruralistic and laid-back living in Sweden, including the home-cooked cuisine. Crayfish, caviar and kanelbullar topped the menu. BEX FYI would say that you should try everything once and although that may be true it certainly does not mean you have to like. I squirmed and squinted as I sucked the juice from the crayfish, the traditional munching method, and I winced and wormed as I swallowed the caviar. Turns out swedish food is not my thing.

Aside from the food we also sampled Stockholm’s retail outlets and quickly learnt that it was not a cheap place. The city’s train network was easy to use and allowed us to frequent the centre hassle free. This meant we could spend mornings getting lost and absorbing the city’s canals and architecture while hunting out some non-crayfish food. 

The usual top attractions apply here, the cathedral and history museum, the gardens and the palace. Out of all of these, Drottningholm palace is perhaps the most enjoyable. Located just outside the city, it is the home to Sweden’s royal family. It boasts beautiful galleries and gorgeous gardens that are well worth the visit. 

Something that might not be on the to-do list, but certainly should be, is the theme park. Grona Lund is a great day out and not a bad price at SEK 100 (£10) per ticket. During a city stay it can be nice to take a break from all things cultural and have a bit off foreign fun. Rollercoasters and ghost trains meet this criteria perfectly.

Another alternative attraction is the Millennium tour. If you are a fan of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo trilogy, this tour shows you all the hotspots mentioned in the book, and film, as well as divulging some of the hidden secrets. Grungy meets geeky.

All in all, Stockholm is an extremely pretty city dotted with architectural treasures and retail havens. Food aside it offers everything you need for a relaxing break, and if you hit it up during the summer period you can enjoy sunshine and high temps. Although there may not be reems to do  for young travelers it is a quieter destination amidst a continent of madness.

Sunday, 28 April 2013

Un poco de Madrid...

Bex couldn't resist trying on a new dress

Bullfighting, sangria and tapas...es Madrid, el capital de Espana. Continuing on my Eurotrip, once again I used Eurolines bus transport. I made my away across the dusty french landscapes and, 18 hours later, found myself in the land of sexy senoritas and hunky hombres.

This is where the party really began and my taste for spanish nightlife kicked in. Myself and travel pal stayed in one of the best hostels I had seen thus far. Cat's Hostel is set in the city centre and surprisingly there are no cats in the hostel, thank god. In fact, the local Madrid people are nicknamed cats because they are always out and about, hence the name.

Located off a narrow alleyway, the building is an 18th century palace and boasts culture and history. It is adorned with quirky decor and archaic awnings making it a rather rad place to stay.  With a bar and common room we were soon making friends and heading out to numerous fiestas.  

On any trip a hostel can make a huge difference if you're able to pick a decent one. BEX FYI: Try to be based as central as possible, read reviews beforehand and a bar or common room is always a bonus as you're then bound to meet some new travel buds.

This hostel, like most others, offered a range of tours, including a free walking tour. However, if it’s your first time in Spain, a tapas tour is highly recommended. It gives you a flavour of the Spanish culture while gently introducing you to Spanish delicacies- pigs ear being one of the most popular. 

Eating and drinking aside, there is an array of culture to soak up in Madrid. On arrival I had thought differently. I couldn’t list anything I particularly wanted to see or do, with no famous landmarks pitching it as a competitor to Paris. But I was wrong and soon discovered the history that lay deep in old Madrid.

Dotted around the city are marks left by the years of conflict during the Spanish civil war, 1936-1939, and the dictatorship under Franco. The history walking tour details the role the city played during that time and is a recommendation for any history buff. 

Today, Madrid enjoys a monarchy and you can visit their residence in Madrid. The Palacio de Madrid is a tourist hot-spot and a more exotic version of our own Buckingham Palace. You can walk around the gardens and state rooms to sample a bit of the royal life.

The Museo del Prado is another site worth visiting. It is the country’s official art gallery and even for those with no artistic interest, it is worth a visit.

Palaces, museums and clubs, sounds like any standard european city. It may be that on each getaway you visit similar sites but, in my experience, each city is unique and has its own story to tell. A parisian church may have once been the home to Quasimodo and a Madrid church may have been home to a group shoeless sisters (The Covent of the Royal Barefoot Sisters).One may smell of croissants and the other of patatas. Either way when many claim all cities seem the same they would be wrong. They may all have churches and museums, night clubs and restaurants but it is the history, the people and the culture that make each destination unique and deserving of a click of our cameras.

Wednesday, 17 April 2013

J'adore...

Tour de Eiffel

By this point, I think we are all US-ed out. We’ve travelled east coast to west coast, and have probably devoured all the chunky chips and diet soda we can stomach. It’s time for a European twist. 

Cobbled streets and hidden art, a touch of glamour and a thirst for fashion, wistful romance and petit delights-Paris, a unique and sacred city that habours an elegance and charm that no other city has.

Thinking it was time I explored some of Europe’s own treasures, I decided to see what I could using Eurolines bus travel. The cheap and reliable service takes travelers across the continent from city to city. It’s an affordable way to travel, as long as you don’t mind enduring that blocked-toilet smell and an overweight stranger nestling into your shoulder. 

Once you reach your destination though, you soon forget the long and restless journey and are met with vibrance and colour, glamour and style. Paris is a bustling hub overspilling with stereotypical floppy-haired musicians and artists, interspersed with french beauties offering pastries and wine. 

The city has numerous hostels well-equipped for backpackers, however in the heart of a European capital they don’t come cheap. 25-€30 a night is the going rate but Aloha hostel was a good buy. It provided all we needed and was in a perfect location. 

BEX FYI: Location is key as you don’t want to spend precious time traipsing all over town.

It also offered a Sandeman’s free walking tour. As a tour lover, the fact that it was free had me spilling with geeky excitement. Led by young people, the Paris tour provided historical and cultural information tailored to a younger age group. 

There are all the must-see museums, like the Louvre and Musee d’Orsay. There’s also the spectacular monuments, like the Arc de Triomphe and the Sacre Coeur. The tour brings you to each of these famous faculties whilst also exposing the hidden jewels you never knew existed. 

A few days in Paris is certainly not enough, there is always more to see and do which is why many people never tire of the city. The Louvre itself could have you lost for days in the world of art and sculpture. After 5 hours, myself and Jenna had still not seen it all and so we returned the next day determined to find Miss Mona Lisa

And how could I not mention the Eiffel Tower. Of course it is not to be missed and you could see it time and time again and still be overwhelmed by its grandeur. Night up the Eiffel tower provides some of the best views of the city as it sparkles below- if you can find a few parisian hunks to accompany you then all the better. Myself and Jen did one better than that though. With my celeb spotting eyes on, sipping coffee in a cafe round from the tower,we found Jackson Rathbone (aka Jasper from Twilight). Oh yes, forget experiencing a moonlit Eiffel with a french fittie, we found ourselves a vampire...

I could spend hours detailing the quirky patisseries that need a visit, the famous museums that must be explored, the intricate artworks that must be discovered, but I would be here all day and you’d be clicking away. What I will say is that often the best moments in Paris are those of doing nothing. Forget all the things “you just have to see” and merely saunter through the rustic alleyways, pause to savour a sweet crepe and enjoy the entertainment poised at every corner. The stroll alone will have you tasting the Parisian flurry of passion that floats in the air of the city of romance.

Sunday, 7 April 2013

I wanna be a Harvard girl!!

Our "mini-me" Barbies getting cosy in Harvard's Admissions Office (Bex, Kerry, Whitney and Cathy)

After a third summer at camp, it was time to hit the road again and visit another big dog on the east coast. Boston is the capital of the state of Massachusetts and located only four hours drive away from New York City. It’s well known as the home to Fenway Park and Harvard University.

Megabus drivers must have wondered what was happening when fifty hungover and exhausted camp counsellors arrived at the bus depot, eager to clamber on board. After three days of non-stop New York action everyone had dark rings circling their eyes and a pasty complexion plastered on their face.

Once in Boston, many people did the usual and booked a single hotel room only to cram an extra 8 people into it. There are however, a variety of hostels in Boston, averaging at around $25 per night, so if you don’t feel like sharing half a pillow with a sweaty “I washed last week” kind of guy then there are other options.

Good Will Hunting, Legally Blonde and The Social Network are just some of the movies filmed in Boston and, more importantly, in Harvard. I was right there, sunglasses on, camera in one hand ready to snap away and Barbie in the other. Yes, you heard right. Before we left NYC, myself and my travel gals made a trip to Toys R Us and bought "mini-me" Barbies as mascots for our trip. At 21 we may have looked a little immature but Barbie Bex is a little reminder I'll always have of the Boston banter. 

Harvard is over 375 years old and is known for its Ivy League schooling that has educated the likes of Barack Obama, Matt Damon and Natalie Portman.

A little too keen, myself and the girls roamed around the big white buildings and pretty parks until we had to admit we were lost. Harvard does offer student-led, free tours-definitely the better option. After an hour of aimlessly wandering and finding ourselves in some second year canteen, we were reduced to inconspicuously tagging onto the back of a tour. The tour offers all the historical information on Harvard, highlighting key moments in its history and the people who made Harvard what it is.

The campus itself was regal, pretty and pristine. Every intricate archway and stone step possessed years of American history. As a typical geek, Harvard fascinated me with its traditions, rituals and stories. 

During the tour I came across an abandoned Harvard tie, and by came across I mean stole. I thought this might make me look more like a smart Harvard intellect and with my glasses on I almost blended in. The tie now hangs above my bed as a piece of Boston memorabilia.

The Red Sox stadium (Fenway Park) is another Boston highlight and, even if you don’t get to watch a game, the stadium is worth a visit to see where one of the best baseball teams is based. 

Boston Common was my favourite place in the city. Seeking some quiet and relaxation, it was the perfect place to chill out with a picnic and observe a a slice of Boston life. The 50 acre park is a hub for tourists, workers and students, and unfortunately the random crazies too. 

BEX FYI: People watching is a great way to get a feel for a place but be careful you don’t attract the wayward men that like to share their life stories.

Night time in Boston was a bit more lively. With so many of us in the one city, all the Round Lakers would meet for dinner, head to a Boston bar and the banter would begin. This involved creating a fake birthday in order to get some free cake, getting lost for hours while trying to find “the best club in Boston’ and busking with an Adele wannabe. Unfortunately, I don't think the girl whose performance we hijacked made any money off of our guest appearance but we definitely gave a crowd.

It’s often random moments like these that make for the best travel memories.