Falling off the Grid

Taking the plunge at Kuang Si Falls

After delving into the animal kingdom it was time for us to leave the illustrious Thai mountains and say hello to Laos. Lush greenery, deep valleys and towering mountains- Laos is an Asian gem sandwiched between Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. It is the less frequented of the four countries which is why it remains unspoiled and has an almost innocent and solitary feel.

From Thailand you can fly into the capital, Vientiane, but really, for the rugged traveller there’s only one way of getting there and that is by boat down the Mekong River. Think a Rosie and Jim-esq wooden boat minus any colour or comfort. We’re talking splinter-potential benches and water sloshing in on both sides- not so glam.

Boarding the boat from Chiang Khong it takes two days to reach Luang Prabang. In the days leading up, myself and Jen dreaded the journey but little did we know it would be a trip that would hold significant memories for years to come. Yep we are still laughing at Bex’s attempt to drink jungle whisky on a see-saw boat, why do I even try? 

The boat was crammed with 20 something year olds all heaving their backpacks behind them. Within an hour we were chatting away to the Auzzies behind us, the Dutch on the left and fellow Brits on the right. 

By the time we docked the next day we had a whole new group of besties and were receiving invites to go fishing in Holland and surfing in Auz. We also had enough boat gossip to keep us chatting for days. Apparently close proximity on a barge equals romance and scandal (Jen and I were merely spectators). All this was set to a backdrop of looming valleys and riverside villages- lush.

Perhaps in part due to our newfound company, Luang Prabang immediately became a new favourite of ours. The city is in the north of central Laos and is UNESCO World Heritage Site so that pretty much says it all; beauty and history rolled into one colonial town. 

Prices remained just as cheap as Thailand, if not cheaper, and we found a rustic guesthouse offering rather plush rooms with hot water for only 37,931kip (£3) a night. There are numerous guesthouses offering homely accommodation in walking distance to the city and dock. Just be willing to check out a few places and compare prices first. 

During the day we visited the nearby Kuang Si waterfalls. With high temps the opaque waters made for a refreshing plunge and for those with a head for adrenaline, the rope swing was there for daredevils to make the jump. Kuang Si Falls are certainly a must.

There are also numerous buddhist temples and monasteries dotted around the city just in case you hadn’t soaked up enough culture quite yet. But, it was early evening when Luang Prabang became abuzz.

Luang Prabang’s night market is different to others. It is calmer and quaint offering a real taste of Laos life and tradition minus the usual tourist traps and tacky nik naks. That’s not to say you shouldn’t still be on guard for pickpockets though. Local cuisine is also offered off the side alleys for a super cheap price and a filling feed.

After the market we visited Utopia. This is the bar to visit. It holds a hum drum of travellers and, after the boat, there were a few familiar faces. With a volleyball court, wooden awnings and cute cushions to perch on we were kept amused until well...11pm. Luang Prabang has an strict curfew for all bars so it’s probably not the best place for party lovers. 

However, still buzzing from my failed attempt at being the cool volleyball chick, we all piled into a tuk tuk where locals seemed to know just where we’d want to go...a late night bowling alley. Yep, you heard me right, bowling alley. 

When we chugged up to the doors we suspected that despite the venue it would still be party party inside but no...there was actual bowling. With a bottle of whisky for a cheap 9916 kip (80p), it was bowls away until the wee hours. Who knew Luang Prabang would be my opportunity to showcase my inability to volley and bowl? Too lucky.

Luang Prabang is a charming city that is so calm and natural in its beauty. Offering natural landscapes to wade in and with local culture spouting from all angles, it was the perfect introduction to Laos. 

Aside from our boating buddies we struggled to find many tourists which is probably what makes Luang Prabang so special. With few internet cafes and nightlife options its created a haven for those wanting to fall off the grid. Luang Prabang was definitely an unexpected favourite.

Having a Tarzan moment...

Elephant trekking in Chiang Mai

After a whistle stop tour of all things spiritual, it was time to hit the road and embark on a ten hour bus ride that would take us to the heart of the north...Chiang Mai. 

With rolling hills and pretty temples this quaint city is far removed from the bright lights of Bangkok. And while we tried to pretend that we were here for culture and history who were we kidding? We were here for the quintesential Thai moments with the elephants and tigers. 

Most hostels offer elephant trek packages that have you picked up and driven to the a nearby sanctuary, or you can book your own through one of the many travel agents you’ll find in Chiang Mai. We were lucky enough to be staying in Green Tulip House which offered every tour to Timbuktu. We opted out of Timbuktu and paid the 1500 baht (£30) for a day of elephant antics. Bargain.

Myself and Jen were picked up by our own guide, the bizarrely named Pee, and driven high into the hills. We were given tribal clothes, because I don’t think our Primani shorts were cutting it, and then began our introductions to the baby elephants. Once we had battled with the babies to get our scarves back and were sufficiently covered in drool it was time to step it up and meet the big ones.

Lucy was regal and beautiful-we stared at her in awe (with slight papping-our-pants facial expressions). She was ours for the morning and we would get to ride, yep not sit in a basket but physically bareback ride, her through the hills and bathe her in the river. 

But first, we had to go through the rather painstaking task of getting atop Lucy...and that involved getting to know Pee in a more initmate way. With a hand on each cheek, the bottom variety, he pushed me up and I gallantly (note the sarcasm) climbed aboard. A little flustered, and sore I might add, it was time to begin my most surreal morning to date. 

Jenna and I navigated Lucy through the lush greenery with our legs tucked behind her heavy ears and our hands gently placed on her leathery skin. While I had expected nerves, the tickle in my tummy soon subsided and instead all I felt was excitement. We trekked to the river and surprisingly stayed put. Meanwhile I made a life decision. I was going to marry our little guide Pee and happily make myself a home and nest amongst the jungle- Pee, the elephant and me, has a ring to it don't you think?

After Jenna informed me that this was slightly unrealistic our morning with Lucy came to an end with a wild water fight. Jenna and I were left soaked to the skin but I guess that’s what happens when you take on an animal with a fairly large water pistol, aka a trunk. A morning of laughter, amazement and awe; we were two happy chicas, but the day wasn’t over yet...

After lunch Pee took us deeper into the valley to visit a hill tribe village. We watched in fascination as the women went about their daily chores covered head to toe in jewellery. They looked back at us, probably with the same fascination. 

After our afternoon of culture and basic staring, we ended on a Pocahontas-esq note and rafted back down the river. Pee soon grew tired of my rendition of “Colours of the Wind” and shut me up by splashing me head to toe. Yep, soaked again.

To mark the end of our day of surreal jungle madness myself, Jenna, Pee downed a shot of jungle whisky.I can still feel the burn...

The next day our trip of wonderment continued-it was time to go a touch wilder and brave the Tiger Kingdom. Located just outside of the city it was easy to reach by tuk tuk. The entry fee depends on the size of tiger you wanted to see though. We decided the bigger the better and booked a date with the daddy tigers. 

All pearly whites a-shining and their paws padding the legnth of their enclosure we said our prayers and entered. We needn't have worried. The beautiful creatures were docile and seemed anything but viscous  whether that’s because of possible intoxication or not who’s to say, but we were able to appreciate their beauty up close and came away without so much as a scratch. Truly an amazing experience

I don’t think any other explanation is needed for why so many people visit Chiang Mai each year. Yes there’s the spas, night life and a fabulous night market but we all know it’s all about the Tarzan moments. 

Nothing beats the feeling of being able to publicly proclaim "I spooned a tiger today" or waking up and casually saying “my legs hurt from riding that elephant yesterday..."